O. H. Mowrer, the patriarch of bio-feedback, found something very telling about human beings ability to change behavior patterns...
It is easier to act yourself into a better way of feeling than to feel yourself into a better way of action.
In western culture surfing has typically been a counter-culture phenomenon celebrated by those from a small tribe apart. Stepping off solid ground into the vast ocean, where our dominance immediately evaporates, "makes sense" to very few. For some reason surfers desire to duck, dive and dance with the final breath of wind-born energy that has traveled thousands of miles to birth a wave, before exhaling its last vital energy upon shore. Whether they realize it or not, surfing centers them in their authentic self, grounds them in the moment, affording them the opportunity to experience over and over again what it feels like to be fully engaged in the now. To do that with skill, grace and joy is a thing of beauty, and enables one to be more engaged in all aspects of your life. And that is what IT is all about...
